Reality Bites is a feature series focused on the relationships people have with food, what kinds of cooking they’re inspired and sustained by, and the ingredients and tools that help them along the way.
Sarah Ben Romdane was born in Paris to a Tunisian father and Syrian mother, and she’s spent summers in Tunisia ever since she was born. Her family produced olive oil in Tunisia from the end of the 19th century until the 1950s — and with her brand, KAÏA, Sarah has picked up the family legacy, producing olive oil on the same family-owned estate. She spilts her time between France and Tunisia. When she’s in Paris, you may spot her watching the sunset at the top of the Parc de Belleville, enjoying Tunisian food, or working in a café; in Tunisia, she might be going for a swim in the ocean or having a meal with family.
What is your morning routine like?
It really depends on whether I am in Paris or Tunisia, as I kinda split my time between both (I currently spend about 3-4 months a year in Tunisia).
If I am in Tunisia, I am able to wake up earlier and start the day watching the sea. And if the weather is warm enough, I might swim too. Otherwise, I’ll try to do a bit of movement before starting to work on day-to-day operations or heading to a meeting.
The weather really affects my mood and energy, so Parisian mornings are slower. I wake up wishing, hoping for light and usually, I don’t find it. I don’t eat breakfast and I don’t drink coffee either. Most days, I’ll work from home in the morning sipping tea before leaving the house for meetings or to work in a café in the afternoon.
tell us a little bit about your background and the food of your childhood. what did you eat growing up?
I was born in Paris to a Tunisian father and Syrian mother. We moved to London when I was 13 where I lived until I turned 24. I would say that my interest in food comes from my culture and family’s story. Both my parents were raised in the diaspora too (my paternal grandfather was politically exiled from Tunisia and my maternal grandfather worked in diplomacy), so I guess that for all of us, food has a Proustian effect. It’s a way for each of us to travel back to a time and place. Like many immigrant kids, I have a thing for nostalgia — I think I use food to recall childhood memories of Tunisia and Syria.
As a child in Paris, I grew up mostly eating Syrian “tabekh,” which is traditional, family-style, home-cooked cuisine. So basically a lot of Ottoman-influenced stews and Levantine rice dishes. Pantry essentials included a seven-spice blend, fresh coriander, and yogurt! I grew up with a jar of labneh always in the fridge too. My mom tried to cook Tunisian dishes (and cooks a pretty great couscous, to be honest), but we would eat Tunisian food mainly while on holidays in Tunisia. Think grilled fish, different styles of couscous, spicy shakshuka, and Tunisian-style pasta (yes, we eat a lot of pasta in Tunisia!). These dishes really shaped my taste — Tunisian, Syrian, Ottoman and Mediterranean food remains my primary food group. Nothing beats fried small fish with couscous or a green stew, plus a fresh tangy salad with a sumac or zaatar dressing for me.
what’s your earliest food memory?
I remember late afternoon lunches in the peak summer heat in the old-school kitchen of our 19th-century family home in Tunisia (unfortunately this house is now abandoned — child of immigrant family drama, IYKYK). I see fried fish, round-shaped potato chips, minty summer salad, and watermelon! I also remember experiencing my first food comas in Damascus at my grandmother’s cousin’s, who would serve us endless mezzehs, grilled kebabs, and fried desserts drenched in syrup.
how would you describe your diet?
I don’t identify with a specific diet but maybe the one that describes me the best is intentional eating. There really is a duality in my life; in diet, lifestyle, climate, everything really!
In Tunisia, my diet is pretty much pescatarian because I come from the coast. I spend a lot of time with my family there so we eat healthy, abundant, Mediterranean, home-cooked meals together that are plant-forward. This is the food that makes me feel the best. I have access to much more open space in Tunisia; I see the sea everyday too. It’s a great feeling. Paris is the opposite. I live alone there so it’s harder for me to sustain such a rich diet and lifestyle. I mean, as a solo founder who launched a business with no exterior investment, it’s fair to say I have been living on a budget these past couple of years. I also find it quite boring to cook only for myself, so I usually keep it very simple. I eat a lot of labneh, chickpeas, eggs, and tuna. I also get takeout regularly for lunch as I am often on the go and usually need a break from working from home. In the evenings, I eat at restaurants a couple of times a week for the purpose of my business and my pleasure!
You’ve lived in London, Paris, and Tunisia, and your mother is Syrian. What is your relationship to the food of each culture like? How has your relationship to food changed as you’ve moved between places?
My father has a strong palate. He has always appreciated classic French cuisine and so through him, we were exposed to Escoffier-esque dishes. Although I have to admit, I tend to think French food is slightly overrated. I mean don’t get me wrong, I enjoy a juicy entrecote and fries, and sure, a good croissant never disappoints, but French cuisine is just not the best in the world in my opinion. What I love about France though is the rituals around food; I love going to the boulangerie, the fromagerie, the rotisserie, etc.
My personal preference is food that tastes like sunshine and heat. For that same reason, I don’t particularly love traditional British cuisine but I think the restaurant scene in London was ahead of Paris. I remember restaurants in Paris being quite dull and old-fashioned. Things started changing in the 2010s partly thanks to the revolution created by Le Fooding. When I moved to London in 2006 as an early teen, the food scene was already much more diverse and fun. Every high street was full of Mexican, Asian, and Italian restaurants and so it really broadened my taste. A lot of these restaurants were chains, and while I obviously prefer an independent restaurant, chains made all of these flavors and cultures very visible and accessible, which I found interesting coming from France where the restaurant scene was very white-washed and traditionalist. Something I like about British food though is its unfussiness; in that sense it reminds me of everyday Tunisian food. It’s not trying to be sophisticated, it’s just humble, honest, and simple. I like that!
How is nutrition and food, for you, related to community, culture, and ancestry?
I think many diaspora kids use food as a way to connect with their identities. Food is a central element of our family gatherings, celebrations, holidays. It helps us understand who we are and where we come from. In keeping these recipes alive, we transmit identity, spirituality, knowledge, and tradition from one generation to the next. I find it very powerful to think that I am harvesting olives from the same trees my ancestors did, and that I eat the foods they ate too. I used to work in media and so my love for storytelling got me to use food to tell stories around my culture, my people, and give that missing context.
How is food, for you, related to resistance?
In the context of Tunisian olive oil, our lands are still colonized and weaponized against our people. Most people are unaware that Tunisia is the third-largest olive oil-producing country in the world. And that's because 90% of our olive oil is bought in bulk by large European corporations at the cheapest commodity price, and they blend it with other olive oils, bottle it, and resell it without any mention of its Tunisian origins. This system creates exploitation, a lack of transparency, and standardized, bad-quality products for consumers. Through my olive oil business and brand KAÏA, I am basically trying to imagine a whole new vision for Tunisian olive oil. One that celebrates our culture, honors our history, empowers our people, one that is rooted in cultural pride and integrity, economic sustainability, and also excellence. That for me is resistance, in the sense that I try to deconstruct colonial trade practices, challenge the current framework of capitalism, increase North African and Arab visibility, and inspire others to feel proud of their heritage.
What does the concept of terroir mean to you?
To me terroir refers to the land, the territory, the flavor but also, and perhaps most importantly, the people behind this all.
Can you tell us a little bit about an especially memorable meal you’ve had?
Probably my annual end of harvest meal with the team. It’s mostly women who harvest olives in Tunisia and our estate is no exception. They handpick the olives with care using traditional skills and knowledge handed down from generation to generation. They all come from the village and their parents and grandparents grew up on the land and worked for my ancestors too. We are all so exhausted by the end of the harvest but I always feel so incredibly thankful for them and for how they spoil me with such love, kindness and loyalty.
What does a typical day of eating look like for you?
I used to do intermittent fasting during Covid years and loved it. I felt amazing. Then I read that it wasn’t suited for women so I took a break. But I lost the habit of eating breakfast first thing in the morning. If I have breakfast, it’s usually around 11am and it’s one (or two!) toasts of labneh with olive oil and zaatar. Some days I’ll add honey or bitter orange marmalade on top of it too. Sometimes I’ll crave porridge and I’ll have it with honey, cinnamon and a seasonal fruit.
If I’m having lunch at home, it’s often something like a chickpea salad with either tuna filets, sardines, or eggs on the side. If I’m eating out, I’m usually having a sandwich.
If I’m having dinner at home and I’m alone, it has to be easy and simple with very few ingredients. Something like boiled potatoes or beans with a leafy green salad, a tomato sauce pasta with extra capers or a Korean-inspired egg rice. If I’m eating out with friends, I’m probably sharing plates.
I don’t drink coffee but I love tea and infusions. I’ll have them morning, afternoon, and night! I’m the kind of person who forgets to drink water, though, and I really have to find a solution for that.
I’m not a huge alcohol drinker and always prefer waking up with a rested, clear head but on a weekend night out, I’ll probably order a glass of natural wine or a gin and tonic.
what’s your go-to snack?
Greek yogurt (from mavrommatis) with nuts and honey if I’m being sensible. A cookie if I’m at a coffee shop and can’t resist the temptation. I’m not a big snacker though.
who are your dream dinner guests?
I would have loved to have dinner with Che Guevara. Gisele Alimi too. Ah, DJ Mehdi also! Anthony Bourdain, of course! Noam Chomsky! I’d love to have Bella Hadid and cook Palestinian-Syrian food together. It’s hard to choose!!!
Do you listen to anything while you cook? Music? Podcast? If so, what?
At the moment, I’m usually keeping up with French politics! There are some France Culture podcast I have really enjoyed lately: Gisèle Halimi, la cause des femmes, L'epicier de Djerba, Le Raï une histoire algérienne.
What’s your food shopping strategy? How often do you go and where? Do you make a shopping list?
I don’t have a strategy but it’s intuitive; I go when I need to or am missing something! I usually go to Monoprix for the basics like pasta, rice, cans, yogurt, etc. once a week or so. I’ll go to Miyam or a greengrocer for fruits and vegetables every other day. My spices come from either Tunisia or Lebanon but I also love the spices from Nomie.
What’s always in your fridge and pantry?
Olive oil, duh! Rye bread, harissa, labneh, zaatar, canned chickpeas, pickled chili pepper, spaghetti. Marmelade from my friend’s brand LemonStory where she cultivates rare citrus and transforms them into jams and liquors, it’s so good! And loads of infusions. I love the ones from Atelier Nubio, I also discovered a Greek brand called Rhoeco and they have this amazing "cacao tea." It tastes very chocolatey, but it's tea! Best of both worlds. I like to drink them from my ibkki mug (they make their ceramics in Kabylia.) I also love the fish tins from PYSCIS.
Your go-to recipes for yourself? And to impress others?
For myself, if I had to mention a quick dish I often cook, it would be Ojja, a shakshouka variant, but more simple, which is often eaten with merguez (local spicy sausage).
Recipe for 2-4 people:
Crush 3 cloves with a teaspoon of caraway using a pestle and mortar
Thinly slice one big onion, or two smaller ones
Add the sliced onions and garlic in a pan with oil and cook for about 5 minutes
Add half a glass of water
Cut your merguez (or spicy sausage) in 2 and add them to the pan
Add one or two teaspoons of artisanal harissa (not the industrial one!)
Add one teaspoon of tomato concentrate
Cook for about 10 minutes
Make space on the pan to fry eggs
Enjoy!
To impress others…. Couscous? Or a Tunisian brik with a runny egg yolk inside.
Essential cookbooks?
Levant: Recipes and Memories from the Middle East by Anissa Helou
Damascus: Taste of a City by Rafik Schami and Marie Fadel
La Sofra by Zeineb Kaak
Carter’s Cookbook by Carter Were
I can’t wait to get Bethlehem from chef Fadi Kattan!
Essential cookware/tools?
A pestle and mortar — Maison Cuilleret has some great ones. And a couscous steamer. Also, an apron is an essential and I love the ones from my friend Alice's brand Table.
Favorite servingware?
Ceramics and pottery from Tunisia!
What are your favorite cafes, restaurants, bakeries, and local food makers? Where do you get take-out?
I like Candle Kids, Ten Belles, Café Singuliers. But to be honest, I also like the unfussy vibe of a classic Parisian neighborhood café.
For bakeries, I like Mamiche (although the line is a bit ridiculous), Liberté, and Sain. I like the cakes at Tapisserie and Bontemps.
I usually get take-out sandwiches from Le Favori, Mamiche, or Urfa Durum. I also like a healthy quick lunch at KIOSK. When I’m eating out with friends, I’m often at Café du Coin, Bar Principal, or Furia. I like Buttes Snack Bar too. Aux Deux Amis also. I like Lao Siam and Guo Xin; I also like Haikara, Le Grand Bol, and BangBang. Kisin for Udon. Gumbo Yaya for soul food. El Nopal for tacos on the go. Chez Bob de Tunis for an old-school Tunisian sandwich. Les 4 Frères Bedri for a “grec” kebab. Tempilenti for simple Italian food. Le collier de la reine and Déviant. Chop Chop. Montezuma Café. Le Maquis in the 18th is delicious! Le Cornichon! I haven’t been to Dandelion yet but I really want to.
all images provided by sarah ben romdane, edited by meghan racklin