Reality Bites is a feature series focused on the relationships people have with food, what kinds of cooking they’re inspired and sustained by, and the ingredients and tools that help them along the way.
Designer and entrepreneur Sabrina De Sousa has long believed in the “ingredient kitchen” — that is, the beauty of a diet of whole and fresh foods that nourish the soul and the stomach. This ethos stems from her childhood in New Jersey and upbringing on hearty Brazilian comfort food, but it’s also served as the inspiration behind Dimes Restaurant, Market & Deli — a downtown staple for New Yorkers. We spoke to Sabrina about how Dimes has changed in the last decade, working in restaurants since she was a teenager, and the meal she shared with Indigenous chefs from across the Americas that she’ll never forget.
What is your morning routine like?
Mine typically kicks off with a cup of coffee drip coffee with milk that my partner brings to me in bed. My partner usually has a different bean on rotation. Then, I usually dive into the news (though I’m really trying to avoid starting my day that way). I'm not big on breakfast but if there's any coffee left, I'll pour myself another cup. I pack lunches for my kids, get them dressed, take my probiotics, and rush off to catch the city bus! School mornings are definitely a whirlwind.
Tell us a little bit about your background. Where does your interest in food stem from?
I was born in New Jersey to parents who moved here from Brazil. When my parents first arrived in the U.S., their community was very small, so coming together to support one another became essential. Every weekend, someone was always cooking for a large group, and naturally, food was always the heart of those gatherings.
When I was young, I spent most summers in Brazil, and while I was there I developed a deep connection with ingredients. I was enchanted by the fruits I got to eat — fruits I’d never seen in the States. It felt like I was living these parallel lives, bridging two cultures.
What does a typical day of eating look like for you?
I usually skip breakfast but will have something light, like toast or a smoothie, in the late morning. For lunch, I often just eat at Dimes, where I like to cycle through the menu. During these colder months, I've been enjoying pozole.
In the late afternoon, I usually crave a small snack. If I'm out running errands, I love an onigiri, or if I'm in the mood for something sweet, I’ll grab a pastry from a nearby bakery.
My partner is a pescatarian, so I don’t cook meat at home. When I have time, I’ll stop by our local fishmonger to pick up some fresh seafood. Mussels have been in the repertoire lately because they’re so quick to prepare. If we don’t feel like putting much effort into dinner, we tend to gravitate towards a simple macrobiotic style of cooking — and luckily our kids don’t mind!
tell us a little bit about the food of your childhood. What did you eat growing up, and how did it influence your taste?
My family comes from Minas Gerais in Brazil, so the food we ate was comforting, hearty mountain food. My mom would occasionally make things like polenta or stews, but a typical meal for us was rice, beans, meat, collards, and salad. If there were any leftovers, she’d toss everything into a pan the next day and top it with a fried egg. We call it mexido (mixed up).
Being an '80s kid, I was exposed to a bit of junk food — things you'd see in commercials like Lucky Charms, Pop Tarts, and Cheetos. But despite having some of these things at home, my mom made sure we got the right nutrients with things like green smoothies or chopped liver, especially when we were feeling sluggish.
When I moved to the city after high school, my boyfriend at the time introduced me to a macrobiotic restaurant called Souen. Without fail, I always ordered the macro plate. There’s something about that dish that felt very familiar to me — rice, beans, steamed greens. It felt like a natural continuation of the way I grew up eating.
Today, I still eat this way. I love making a big batch of beans and eating it with rice and veggies throughout the week. My kids love their rice and beans too.
what is your earliest food memory?
My earliest food memory is of canjica, a sweet corn pudding made with coconut milk and cinnamon. It’s my father’s favorite, and my mother would always make it for him. It’s quite simple but it holds so much warmth and nostalgia.
Many years ago, I discovered an ice cream shop in Greenwich Village that served Brazilian corn ice cream! They captured the flavor perfectly, but sadly, the shop closed during the pandemic.
You co-founded Dimes a little over ten years ago. Can you tell us a bit about starting the café?
Honestly, I think I blacked out for the first few years. When we first opened, my partner and I naively thought we could handle everything ourselves. We quickly realized that wasn’t sustainable and started asking friends to pick up shifts. Before we knew it, Dimes had grown into a full-service cafe, and we were running a team, juggling all the moving parts.
It was incredible to feel the neighborhood embrace us. I poured everything I had into it. It was exhausting but also deeply fulfilling. We managed to make it work and I owe so much of that to our team.
You worked in other restaurants before starting Dimes. What was that like? How different were those environments from the day-to-day at Dimes?
I’ve always worked in restaurants. As a teenager, it was a pizzeria, and when I moved to the city, I hopped around different spots. I’d work nonstop for months just so I could take time off to travel. The flexibility of restaurant jobs allowed me to take month-long trips, which I loved.
There are, however, a few jobs that really shaped me. One was Lovely Day, where I found my core group of friends — people I’m still very close with 20 years later. That job taught me the value of community. Another was Northern Spy, a now-closed restaurant that was ahead of its time in focusing on seasonality. They even had a dedicated “urban forager” whose job was to source ingredients from the farmers’ market. Cooking seasonally is very normal now, but Northern Spy was where I truly learned about New York’s growing seasons. I carried all that food knowledge with me.
The day-to-day in most restaurants feels pretty similar: the rhythm, the heartbeat, the highs and lows. Around 4 pm is usually our respite, that in-between moment when shifts either start or end. I love this time because it’s when I get to connect with our staff, catching up before the next rush begins.
What has changed in a decade of running Dimes?
So much has changed! When we opened in 2013, our menu felt very singular in New York, but now it’s much more mainstream. I don’t see that as a bad thing at all — people should absolutely be eating more consciously (and I love having the option to grab a healthy bowl at an airport).
But running Dimes still feels very much the same. It’s a small business that demands my attention. The biggest difference is that now I have two children and a much better sense of time management.
what’s always in your fridge and pantry?
Fermented things, a good variety of vinegars, anchovies, coconut milk, ghee, rice, beans, frozen dumplings, sourdough, maple syrup, lots of fruit, chocolate.
Essential cookbooks?
Gran Cocina Latina by Maricel Presilla is a true encyclopedia of Latin cooking. The amount of travel and research that went into this book is astounding. I love how so many of her recipes come with personal stories. It’s a gift that this book exists.
Six Seasons by Joshua McFadden is one of my all time favorites. Whenever I feel uninspired, I open it up and always find something delicious to make. The way he layers flavors is deeply satisfying.
Donabe by Naoko Takei Moore and Kyle Connaughton isn’t exactly essential, but it’s something I’ve been dedicating more time to. I’ve had a donabe rice pot for a few years now, and cooking with it is such a fun experience, especially for dinner parties. I’m still mastering it and often turn to this book for guidance.
Angelica Home Kitchen by Leslie McEachern is on this list simply because it brings me so much joy. I miss this restaurant dearly. It’s a dying breed, sadly.
And lastly, anything by Nigel Slater. I have such a soft spot for his books. I love the way he writes recipes and makes cooking feel so effortless and relaxed.
Essential cookware or tools?
Vitamix, zester, mortar and pestle, sheet pan, sharp chef’s knife, peppermill.
Can you tell us a little bit about an especially memorable meal you’ve had? What made it so enjoyable, where was it, and who were you with?
In 2017, we hosted a gathering of Indigenous chefs, herbalists, and seed keepers from across the Americas to honor pre-colonial traditions. They cooked a beautiful meal paired with foraged teas. Being in their energy was unforgettable. Their deep intention behind every ingredient — whether foraged or sourced from an Indigenous farm, their sense of camaraderie, and their dedication to educating future generations is something I’ll never forget and still reflect on every November.
What are your favorite cafes, restaurants, bakeries, and local food makers? Where do you get take-out?
Omen Azen for Japanese.
The Odeon for a drink and fries at the bar.
Shabu-Tatsu for hot pot on a cold winter night.
Antonucci Cafe if you find yourself on the Upper East Side.
Lavagna for a last-minute reservation.
Mission Chinese is the best it’s ever been.
Ha’s Snack Bar because Sadie and Anthony are flavor geniuses!
Tokuyamatcha for onigiri and matcha on the go.
Smor for a cardamom bun.
In my opinion, ACQ makes the best sourdough in the city. Thankfully, we carry it at Dimes Market, so I don’t have to make the trip to Brooklyn.
Minamoto Kitchoan has the most special mochi to bring to a dinner party.
And my top three for takeout: Soothr for Thai, Ayat for mezze and salads, and when I’m feeling under the weather, Wu’s Wonton King bone broth dumpling soup always does the job.