American writer and journalist Lindsey Tramuta has spent decades pulling back the curtain on the real and evolving Paris and the mythologized Parisian woman—red-lipped, white, thin, bourgeois, seductive, and perfectly composed. Sharing the spirit of Passerbuys, Lindsey’s work reveals “Parisianness” in all its multiplicity while highlighting those who are bucking tradition, making names for themselves, and transforming the city. She shares her journey of moving to Paris as an American and her path to becoming a writer and publishing 2 books.
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Top, Ekyog ; Skirt, Mont Saint-Michel
on her morning routine
I struggle to wake up at 8 or 8:30 am and then have coffee with my husband who has been working from home since the quarantine started. I snuggle my cats and try to get myself mentally organized before I get to work for the day. Mostly, the morning is about fighting the urge to read too much news.
on moving to paris from Philadelphia
I grew up in Philadelphia, studied French literature and linguistics, and moved to Paris at the end of 2006. After finishing my undergrad in Paris, I struggled to find a job, which is part why I went straight to grad school. So the first long-term job after that came through one of my classmates. Her childhood friend was starting a brand and needed someone to handle communication and social media strategy and I jumped in. Contacts and friends have been instrumental in leading me to potential opportunities.
I’m heading toward 15 years in Paris and it feels inconceivable to me that I ever lived anywhere else. I settled into a métro-boulot-dodo life in Paris when I was 21. I began learning French when I was 12 and I spent the first few years of my relationship with my husband exclusively speaking French. I’ve worked in French offices, had heated debates with French colleagues, and interviewed hundreds of people for my work over the years, in French. Legally, I also became French. So I feel deeply connected to French life. I also know there will always be a part of me, whether in my humor or my way of connecting with others socially, that is undeniably American. I’m constantly shocked by both of my “homes”, to be honest: I constantly find myself shocked (still!) at how progressive France thinks it is but isn’t (e.g. the never-ending obsession with the headscarf and policing women’s bodies) and I am gobsmacked by the fissures and hate in American society.
on the differences between being a journalist in France versus the States
Journalistic style (and ethics, in some cases) is different -- for example, French journalists willingly show sources quotes for approval before publishing. But it’s a hustle here just like in the U.S. I’d also say that French journalists are paid even less than American journalists. My advice, particularly to anyone thinking of freelancing, is (sadly) to plan to have other revenue streams.
““When I was a teen, I’d write angsty poetry and write personal essays. They were never published but I knew it was something that came naturally. But it wasn’t until I was trying to uncover how I would make my place in Paris (just after graduating) that I decided I should try blogging about the city and my adaptation— less to become known but rather to force myself to explore, to uncover what the city was really about and how I felt in discovering it. Eventually, that became such an integral part of my every day (if I wasn’t writing I was thinking about writing) that I knew it could be a springboard. The day I learned of a timely event happening in Paris that seemed more appropriate to cover for a magazine like T (New York Times) than my own platform, I knew it was time to branch out. And that first story, about Colette’s 15th-anniversary bash in the Tuileries Gardens for T Magazine, changed everything. The connection was entirely thanks to a talented and generous fellow writer and friend, Amy Thomas.””
Top, Leon & Harper
on preconceived notions of the parisienne and her mission to debunk it
I arrived in Paris with only the assumption that Parisiennes were better dressed and more cultured than American women but that was about it. Over the years, that evolved and I understood why there was such storytelling around her; such grand fantasies of her superiority from mind to body. But it’s all engineered to appear that way. It only takes a stroll through my neighborhood (and most neighborhoods, frankly) to see that the archetype is a construct that is both narrow and harmful. OF COURSE it excludes and effaces the bulk of the population. What I learned through spending hours with more than 40 women, including those born in Paris, was the extent to which so many of them felt invisible or discriminated against at one point in their lives in the city as a result of unrealistic expectations or standards that were impossible to meet. In other words, I was confronted with stories attesting how psychologically harmful the Parisienne stereotype is for local woman, not merely for women living outside of France.
on publishing her books
I had an agent for the first book and continued to work with her for the second. I knew this was an important step from speaking with other friends who had published books. But I also knew I needed a proposal first. I worked on that after work most nights for a couple of months and when it finally felt ready to be reviewed, I sent it to my friend who had offered to connect me with his agent if the proposal looked good. He liked what he saw, she liked what she saw, and we worked together to polish it up to be shopped around to publishers. It took four months, from her receiving my proposal to receiving the offer from my publisher, Abrams, to come together. And then I got to work! With the second book, I put together a slightly less in-depth proposal and shared it with my editor at Abrams. If it didn’t get the green light, I’d be able to pitch it elsewhere. Thankfully, they believed in the vision and were an ally through the whole thing.
Top, Leon & Harper ; Skirt, Samsøe Samsøe ; Earrings, Minoux
““People; the life stories of others. I’m particularly interested in how people overcome adversity, tragedy or limitation to grow, build, connect, and live beautiful lives. In today’s world, we all need lessons in seeing the beauty in the darkness.””
Top, Anthropology ; Jeans, Madewell
On her writing rituals, mental health and maintaining balance
I have what feels like thousands of notebooks and a penchant for hotel and restaurant pens that lose ink in a week’s time. I always carry a small notebook with me to capture ideas or words or smells I want to remember and I almost always start my writing work on paper-- I can’t bear the blank word document on the computer. Writing by hand simply feels more liberating. I’m definitely a product of my generation because sitting (and likely years of sitting improperly) has taken its toll on my lower back, which means I need chairs with support or extra pillows. The chair in my office is soft velvet and curves perfectly to my back. But my naughty place to work is sprawled on the couch, staring at the ceiling, waiting for the words to piece themselves together. My notebook or iPad is nearby to catch what emerges in those moments of idling. I need to idle.
Candles are tremendously beneficial to my mental health. I’m sensitive to scent which can sometimes mean the wrong combination of smells triggers headaches but also means that the right ones are a balm. I go straight to L’Officine Universelle Buly for natural candles with vegetal wax (love the Pater Mateos and Alexandrie Scents and the marble holders make decorative pieces once the candle has burned out). I also schedule pilates at least twice a week (right now, that’s from home with Zoom classes from Pilates at Reformation) which I began a couple of years ago mostly to strengthen my core to protect my back from further injury. During confinement in Paris, those classes saved me and reminded me how helpful deep breathing is!
on how she deals with writer’s block
I take a walk, play with my cats, or read -- a book or a magazine. Anything to shift my attention away from the panic of not being able to write. Sometimes walking away and giving my mind time isn’t an option but I try to do anything BUT sit for hours and hours in a chair hoping magic will happen.
on her beauty routine
The only thing I adopted from my mother is to always remove makeup before bed. Beyond that, I developed my own routines through trial and error over the years. There was a time where I was trying all sorts of products and realized it was excessive and costly! So I simplified: micellar water to wash my face in the morning and remove makeup OR the miracle cleanser by Aurelia Probiotic Skincare which is extremely gentle and soothing. Then, it’s Grown Alchemist hydra-repair face cream, SPF (I love Unseen by Supergoop), and some concealer under the eye by Erborian. If I add makeup, it’s simple: a bit of shimmery eyeshadow, mascara (usually Kjaer Weis, plus it’s rechargeable!), and a touch of pressed blush by RMS.
on her style
I used to think I had eclectic taste but that’s only because I didn’t know what else to call it. I still don’t know how to categorize my style but I suppose it’s somewhere between classic and funky-- I love loose button-up shirts with fitted pants or jeans because it makes me feel comfortable and I love that sneakers can pass in formal settings now. I’m a big fan of Sessun, a French label that began in Marseille, which leans bohemian, Veja for its ethical production, and Monsieur for the elegant simplicity of the rings and necklaces. I also own a fair amount from Sézane and Everlane (but I haven’t purchased anything since it was revealed that their radical transparency claim masked all sorts of unethical practices), Madewell, Leon & Harper, and Kitsuné. After reading Fashionopolis by Dana Thomas, I haven’t wanted to buy anything but for good reason: fashion is polluting the earth and too much of its production puts workers in danger. So I keep what I already own or sell what I no longer want/need and am very mindful of whatever I purchase.
Top, Leon & Harper ; Skirt, Samsøe Samsøe ; Earrings, Minoux
Top, Anthropology ; Jeans, Madewell, Bag, Chloé ; Sunglasses, Fora
on her favorite books, publications and podcasts
I’m currently reading Géneration Ocasio-Cortez, I was keen to read a French perspective on the leading activists in America, including AOC. It’s wonderfully reported and fascinating. I recommend Une Farouche Liberté, conversations with the powerhouse lawyer and activist for women’s rights Gisèle Halimi, who passed away in July. She is a feminist model whose contributions paved the way for the current generation of feminist activists, Our Women on the Ground -- powerful and moving stories from women reporting from the Arab World. It’s an exceptional of collection of essays and Mona Chollet’s Beauté Fatale which analyzes the insidious effects and tyranny of the beauty industry on women as well as digs into the toxic standards of femininity. It’s crucial feminist reading. I regularly read (or am addicted to following) The New York Times, the Washington Post, The New Yorker and The Atlantic. In France, I read Le Monde, Libé and follow investigative stories from Mediapart. I listen to mostly English-language podcasts like Rough Translation, Throughline, Call Your Girlfriend, Conan O’Brien Needs a Friend (the Paul Rudd episode still ranks top for me), Fresh Air, Everything is Alive but among my French go-to shows: La Poudre, Affaires Étrangères, Kiffe ta Race, and Quoi de Meuf.
on her favorite spots in Paris
I’m very attached to my neighborhood so I have to call out Dreamin Man and Cafe Oberkampf for coffee, The Hood for lunch, Pierre Sang and Bar Martin for dinner and drinks, Cizor’s salon for the very infrequent haircut (I usually end up going several months between appointments), and Elaine Huntzinger for acupuncture and facial rejuvenation. My favorite museum is the Musée d’Orsay but I rarely go. My art, in fact, is pastry! For that, I go to Fou de Pâtisserie, Bontemps, Maison Aleph and Mamiche for a killer choux à la crème de vanille.