Meet Karolyn Pho

Karolyn Pho for Passerbuys by Clemence Poles 68.jpg
 

Karolyn Pho has worked in fashion for a long time and has arrived at a point where she’s currently styling her dream shoots. Along the way, it’s taken experimentation and a willingness to go all-in on her creative projects. We chatted with her about the moment she felt she’d made it and how to actually achieve a work/life balance by forming boundaries. She also gets into what rebuilding her life after experiencing trauma looked like and how much her parents inspire her. Read on and learn.

 Listen to Karolyn's playlist |  ⌨ Karolyn’s last google search

*trigger warning: this interview contains descriptions of violence and abuse

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on her morning routine

My morning routine starts with a tall glass of water, a handful of Nordic Naturals Ultimate Omega and Source Naturals Wellness Formula vitamins, and maybe a cup of Sadaf Earl Grey tea if I've had a late night. I’m up by 6:30am or 7am to leave enough time for a 3-mile walk before starting my day. Usually, I leave my phone at home because my boyfriend and I walk the dogs together, and it’s our time in the morning to chat and really connect. If I'm walking alone, I will bring my phone but just to listen to music. I make a very strong point not to look at my phone or answer texts or emails. If there’s a huge project happening, I’ll check my email but every time I do, I’m like, “What was the point of this? What am I going to do in the next 15 minutes that’s going to change anything?”

on her upbringing in orange county

Growing up in Orange County was a bit suffocating, especially as a teen. I didn’t know many people with real ambition or big dreams. I knew I wanted to be in fashion, and I always pictured myself having a life bigger than what Orange County could allow. I figured if I could place myself in an environment with interesting people, I would be able to tap into my creative self. I find myself still doing this today. I’m always trying to find new environments to inspire my work and increase my quality of life.

on how she got her start in the fashion industry

I moved to LA at 20 years old after being offered a few styling internships. The scene at the time, though, was not what it is today. I hated the work I was doing and felt it was cheesy and uninspired. I moved to NY in my mid-20s. I wanted to try designing, so I started by interning for a designer and ended up pursing that for a while. I liked having more control over what I was putting out and showed at Fashion Week for like six seasons. But it became really lonely. I wanted to get back to a place where my creative work could be collaborative, so eventually moved back into styling.

“The world of fashion I was exposed to when I was starting out in NY was at a completely different level than I’d ever seen and changed my perspective. At first, I was mostly doing e-commerce and smaller lookbooks, but being a stylist in NY, you don’t just do wardrobe. It’s full concept—so many references are being used, and it’s all-encompassing of art. One day, Nike came knocking, and suddenly I was styling international campaigns. That was a defining moment in my career—at that moment, I felt I was a REAL stylist.”
— on her career defining moment

on people’s misconceptions of what styling work is

Many people think styling is a purely creative occupation, but in my experience, it looks more like: 50% organization and delegation, 30% creative, and 20% client and producer relations. Freelance life is certainly not for everyone as job security is non-existent, and there are no paid vacation days or health insurance but time off is necessary to avoid burnout. I’ve found it requires an immense amount of self-discipline to say no to work and disconnect from your “work” persona. Of course, being in control of your own schedule is an obvious perk.

on working on her dream shoot

I'm working on one of my dream shoots right now with a photographer named Vince Aung, whose work I adore. We're doing it for FAR–NEAR, a publication who has done a lot of work showing the range the Asian community has. There's been a big change over the past few years of asserting what it means to be Asian and fighting a stereotype. And of highlighting that all of these people have existed and created very cool work for a long time. I'm predominantly pulling Asian designers and highlighting brands like Commission and Peter Do. The number of Asian designers who want to lend because the project inspires them means everything in the world to me. It signals trust in me, the photographer, and the mission of the publication. And I think that this is how you change things. It takes an entire community to band together and make that shift.

on advice for those aspiring to become a stylist

The one thing that someone else once said to me that has always helped is that learning to say no is a good thing. As scary as it is, saying no as a freelancer means that you can open up new doors and do jobs that you actually want to do. Eventually, it helps you focus your career towards things that will like make you happy and leaves room for better opportunities. Even if you’re not working, get comfortable in that space. Try to do something that isn’t work that makes you happy, whether it’s working out or painting or whatever else, because there is always going to be more work.

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“Lately, I’ve been driven to this idea of family. I want my editorial work to look really, really realistic. Like, I almost want it to look like it’s not an editorial. I think about doing everything in my power to sneak high fashion brands into a story without making it look like a fashion story. In a way, it’s kind of like working backward. Even the word ‘editorial’ is about creating some kind of fantasy world of things you wouldn’t wear every day. So lately, I’ve seen how I can reverse that.”
— on the themes she explores in her work

on how she got herself out of an abusive relationship

The bad breakup that prompted my move to NY was the result of two years in a very toxic and abusive relationship. There was verbal abuse, physical abuse, and, worst of all, emotional abuse. I woke up one morning with bruises on my arms and blood on the sheets (from a head-butting the night before) and had to get ready for a work meeting. Showing up to work having to hide my bruises was enough for me to realize I was trapped, and this would only get worse. To be clear, it was not the bruising that bothered me; it was the hiding. I was not being honest with myself or anyone else, and that destroyed me emotionally.

I came out of this relationship as a shell of who I once was and had been completely disconnected from my friends and some of my family. This was clearly a major red flag that I wish I would've clocked, but at the time, hiding the abuse was a way to preserve my relationship and my love for this person.

on the process of healing

The process of rebuilding my life was as long as it was hard. I was very lucky to have a family that loved me unconditionally, and they were able to support me financially so I could leave my abuser. I also consider myself incredibly fortunate to have fallen into a group of friends in NY who were happy, healthy, and accepted me with all my baggage. Having a strong support unit was what saved me from going back to my abuser. Sadly, this is a very common tale that I’ve unfortunately had to witness with another victim of my abuser.

“I mean, this is really cheesy, but my parents and their work ethic have always inspired me. They came here from Vietnam as immigrants with absolutely nothing and didn’t know English. They were both able to get college degrees and build a really, really beautiful, comfortable life. My dad is an engineer, and my mom helps him run an engineering firm. She was a computer programmer in the ‘90s when it was still rare to have a female breadwinner in the family. My dad had a job too but was the one picking us up from school, taking us to swim practice, and making sure dinner was ready. When they were in their 40s, there was a complete shift where my dad got this opportunity he really wanted to take. It was a complete risk but they were just like, ‘Fuck it. Let’s do it.’ And my mom supported him and quit her career. It paid off. Thank God.”
— on being inspired by her parents

on rebuilding

To rebuild my life, I began focusing heavily on work and curating new friendships. I was desperately trying to invent myself—some fragment of who I once was with who I wanted to be. This seemed to work for a few years, but the healing process didn’t really start until I met two of my abuser’s victims, whose relationships followed mine. They shared their stories that were eerily similar, and through this, I was able to understand how disturbing the situation actually was. It quelled every doubt I had of “Was it my fault?” or “Am I crazy?” Shortly after, I began seeing a therapist who specializes in trauma and refocused my physical workouts into meditative experiences through breathwork. Speaking with other victims has been incredibly healing for me. There's no better feeling than to reassure someone that they are not alone, that they should not feel shame, and that there is a way out.

on what she’s reading

Buffalo Zine No. 8: Fashion’s Kitchen by Buffalo Viral, Nudi by Paolo Roversi, The Days of Abandonment, by Elena Ferrante, Daddy by Emma Cline, Lost Boys by Slava Mogutin, Dessert Person by Claire Saffitz, by Heartburn Nora Ephron

on her beauty routine

My overall beauty and health routine includes drinking copious amounts of water (close to a gallon per day), 8-10 hours of sleep, a Flora Super 8 Hi-Potency Probiotic at night, and 3-5 days a week of workouts alternating between hot yoga, pilates, and tennis. My skincare routine is more of a religion… I’ll spare you all of the details but the products I swear by include iS Clinical Pro Heal Serum, Paula’s Choice Essential Glow Moisturizer SPF 30, and Tata Harper Restorative Eye Crème. I don’t often wear makeup, but when I do, I’ll throw on La Mer Renewal Oil for a dewy glow and Kosas Wet Lip Oil Gloss. I only shampoo my hair once every two weeks but will condition every three days with Komenuka Bijin Moisturizing Hair Treatment. I only wear one fragrance— Vilhelm Parfumerie’s Morning Chess.

on her style

My personal style is ever-evolving, but there’s always an androgynous undertone. Looking sexy and effortless is always the goal. My favorite brands at the moment include Double RL for denim and knits, vintage Emporio Armani for trousers, Agnes B for cardigans, Cosabella for undergarments, Jil Sander and Lemaire for shoes. I always prefer to dress a little more casually than what the occasion calls for. For dinner events, I’ll wear pants or a dress that will comfortably conceal my food baby… If the pasta is hitting, I will not be precious about my food intake. For days when I’m just not feeling myself, I’ll defer to a favorite outfit for the season. This season it’s a white Prada menswear button-down, vintage Loro Piana suede menswear jacket, Double RL denim pants, and Ferragamo loafers or Jil Sander sandals.

karolyn’s favorite spots in los angeles

Freedman’s is currently doing beautiful Greek plates, but they’re usually known for their thoughtful and fun Jewish fare. Everything at Tacos Y Birria La Unica is good. Felix Trattoria for pasta and focaccia, Sonoratown for chicken chivichanga, Courage Bagel for an everything bagel with cream cheese, tomato, lemon, salt pepper, olive oil. Maru has a solid matcha latte, or I’ll go to The NoMad Coffee Bar for a Matchalada, which is wild. It’s matcha tea, toasted coconut milk, and cold brew coffee.

images by clémence polès, interview by marina sulmona